Chikan is a basic part of Indian culture since 655 AD believed to be rekindled by the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir, Nur Jehan. It is a traditional embroidery style which took birth in city of Nawabs, Lucknow, India. The embroidery is one of the Lucknow’s most famous textile decoration styles.

The word ‘chikan’ actually means embroidery. There have been many explanations behind the evolution of the term ‘Chikankari’. Some say that the word, ‘Chikankari’ is derived from a Persian word Chakin or Chakeen while others claim that it is a bent version of Chikeen or Siquin.

The history behind the Indian Chikan work is very rich. It is said that in the 3rd century BC, a Greek traveler who was passing by a village in Lucknow stopped and requested a poor man for water. Delighted with his hospitality, the traveler taught him the art of Chikankari. But, some credits Noorjahan for introducing the art to India.

Method of Chikankari embroidery work depends on the stitches used. There are three types of unique stitches that are employed in the art.

• Flat Stitches
  
• Embossed Stitches
  
• Jali Work
  

Flat stitches are elusive and delicate which lie close to the surface of the fabric. It gives a unique textural appearance while Embossed stitches which are decorated from the fabric surface providing it a distinguishing granular texture. But, the Jali work is the famous of all as it gives striking delicate net effect.

There are some basic steps involved in getting the finish product of the Indian Chikan work. The basic processes involved in the art are namely: cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing.

After completing the cutting and stitching process the printing work is carried out with wooden blocks dipped in dye. The next step is to design the embroidery which is generally done by women. The last step involves the washing and finishing, which takes almost 10 to 12 days including bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening and ironing.

In recent time, the demand of the Chikankari work is increasing and has spread to cushion covers, pillow covers and so on. The market of the embroidery is flourishing, enriching not only in India but also in International market including U.S. and Europe.

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